Howard Magazine - Page 21 - Good Eats - Standout seafood

Howard Magazine
- Page 21
Good Eats - Standout seafood

The clam chowder was a particular standout. The rich, creamy broth was packed with tender clam strips that essentially melted in my mouth. The hint of sweet bacon, tender chunks of potato and house-made oyster crackers completed the classic, hearty soup.


The lobster roll lived up to the hype. It’s one of the best I’ve had in this region (and I’ve had almost all of them). Packed with huge chunks of sweet lobster meat topped with a butter sauce and encased in a soft flavorful roll, it’s a must-have. The hand-cut fries served with the roll (and a number of other items) aren’t anything to write home about, though.


The baked macaroni and cheese is a little better. The comfort food could have used the addition of a sharper cheese to give it that needed punch. We got the pasta as the side for the crab cake, which has a good amount of lump meat, but also contained a lot of filler. It was topped with a wine butter sauce that wasn’t that special.


The Chesapeake kettle, a gluten- and dairy-free dish, comes in a hulking, wide bowl and is packed with crab claws, tender Virginia clams, mussels, gulf shrimp, red potatoes, an entire ear of roasted corn in a J.O. spice broth. The dish gets an added kick from numerous chunks of andouille sausage.


The half-pound walrus burger is also worth a look. It was piled down with beefsteak tomato, Tillamook cheddar and iceberg lettuce. But the patty lacked seasoning throughout.


We finished the evening with the vanilla bean cheesecake at our server’s suggestion. The small, circular dessert with a graham cracker crust was placed on a subtle orange marmalade and was topped with a mountain of homemade whipped cream.


All of the dishes at the restaurant were made daily from scratch, according to our server. That’s remarkable when you look at the extensive menu, and you take into account how many exceptional things the restaurant does.