Howard Magazine - Page 20 - Good Eats By John-John Williams | Howard Magazine

Howard Magazine
- Page 20
Good Eats By John-John Williams | Howard Magazine

Standout seafood


Touting the state’s best lobster roll, Walrus Oyster & Ale House lives up to the hype


When you open up a seafood restaurant in Maryland and boast that you have the best of a certain seafood item, you’d better live up to the claim.


I must admit I was skeptical entering The Walrus Oyster & Ale House, a cavernous and brightly lit industrial-meets-nautical restaurant with circus-like signage amid a slew of chain restaurants at The Mall In Columbia. The restaurant advertises its lobster rolls as the best in the state.


But once we were warmly greeted, seated and consuming cocktails that were equal parts beautiful and well-balanced, we knew that this culinary experience was going to be special. The frozen lychee colada, a not overly sweet rum-based drink, was bursting with flavor and topped with a whole lychee. The spring fling, a vodka, watermelon, honey and Cava concoction, was the kind of creation you would expect at a posh beach resort.


The complimentary warm cornbread, served with whipped butter, was cake-like sweet and had a moist, light crumb.


The oysters — there were 15 varieties — were broken down into sweet, briny and salty categories.


Our friendly, knowledgeable server recommended several of her favorites, including the Sweet Jesus, a sweet, smaller oyster with a buttery texture and smooth finish, and the larger 38 degree North, a flavorful, semi-salty oyster that paired well with the cocktail sauce and horseradish that accompanied the dish.


The oysters Rockefeller were delicious. The large shells were stuffed with tender meat and topped with bubbling hot spinach, creamy cheeses and crispy breadcrumbs. That starter was served with a delightful charred lemon and a slice of grilled French bread.